The Swedish capital since 1634, Stockholm has truly earned its occasional nickname, “Venice of the North.” More than a dozen beautiful bridges link its 14 interconnected islands, and passenger ferries and cargo ships dot the plentiful waterways that snake throughout the archipelago. Forty percent of the city’s public space is reserved for lush green expanses, seven nature reserves, and every manner of manicured park and pathway.
Stockholm is also distinctly diverse: Nearly 15 percent of its residents were born abroad, and bits of conversations in many languages swirl about regardless of where you travel throughout the city. It’s therefore no surprise that Stockholmers take great pride in their city’s assorted artistic offerings and unique architecture, which spans eight centuries. Perhaps its eclectic population and rich cultural history is what makes the city such a perfect blend of Old-World charm and modern sophistication.
9 a.m.
Scandinavians are serious about their carbs, so start the day like a local and head to Bakverket for a sweet breakfast of kanelbullar (homemade cardamom cinnamon rolls) and apricot jam, washed down with a cup of strong coffee. As the sun’s rays cast a bright light over the city, bike commuters whiz by in an orderly fashion, including women in skirts and heels and men in fitted suits.
Next, snag a few more sweets from the award-winning Chokladfabriken, founded in 1997 by pastry chef Martin Isaksson and his wife, Ellinor. The shop uses only the finest raw ingredients to create the city’s best chocolates, from pistachio marzipan bars to licorice toffee delights.
10 a.m.
Walk off breakfast as you head through the city toward one of Stockholm’s prominent landmarks. The Vasa Museet is a strangely compelling, stories-high museum built to fit an almost completely intact 17th-century warship, which sank less than one nautical mile off the dock during its maiden voyage in 1628. The Vasa is a rather amusing monument to Swedish colonial hubris and perseverance: After it sat under the marina for three centuries, archaeologists and wreck divers worked doggedly to retrieve it in 1961 (the exact reason for their collective obsession is still a bit uncertain).
12 p.m.
The 17 vendors in the eclectic food hall of Östermalms Saluhall represent a wide range of cuisine, with many family-operated stalls that have served the same local specialties for generations. Try the lemon sole with beet root at Lisa Elmqvist, where fourth-generation chefs bake, fry and poach daily catches and fresh shellfish on-site. At Tysta Mari, sample the pickled herring with mashed potatoes, a regional favorite. And no visit to Scandinavia is complete without sampling some smørrebrød, a traditional Danish open-face sandwich of cold meats or smoked fish on dark rye bread, also favored by many Swedes.
1 p.m.
Take a stroll through the Södermalm district, where you can pick up stylish Scandinavian housewares and vintage threads at reasonable rates. In the unisex clothing boutique Grandpa, try on a warm cable-knit sweater or grab a set of tumblers for your next dinner party. Just down the road, stop into Retro Etc for secondhand home décor and new one-of-a-kind kitchen accessories designed for in-house label Koloni. To pick up the latest Swedish pop hits (and impress your friends back home), head into Pet Sounds, a record shop named after the Beach Boys’ 1966 album and known for curating the best in classic rock, folk and reggae. Take a break at outdoor coffee cottage Fjällgatan’s Kaffestuga, overlooking the harbor with a breathtaking view of Djurgärden island.
4 p.m.
Hop aboard Strömma’s Under the Bridges two-hour boat tour for a closer peek at what the central islands have to offer, including the Gröna Lund amusement park, Skansen open-air museum, rolling meadows of Djurgården and the newly redeveloped waterfront area along the Hammarby Sjöstad. From your seat in the covered boat, you’ll sail under 15 bridges, past the inner city and old city district Gamla Stan (a must-see on your next trip), and through the locks that connect Lake Mälaren to the Baltic Sea. When you pass near the inner city harbor, keep your eyes open to spot the exact location where the Vasa sank nearly four centuries ago.
6:30 p.m.
Before you mosey back toward the city center, call ahead for a table at Lao Wai. This small hidden gem features a Sichuanese-Taiwanese-inspired vegetarian menu and traditional Chinese tea service. Start with the Chinese hedgehog mushroom appetizer before digging into your Qing Chao Shu Cai vegetable stir-fry or Ma Po Dou Fu, a spicy pepper and faux meat dish that will equally impress the most staunch vegetarian and committed omnivore. Save room for the panna cotta with a decadent sea buckthorn sauce, made from the bright orange berries of the common Eurasian shrub.
9 p.m.
Before you head to bed at the Grand Hotel, stop for a nightcap at the hotel’s Wine Cellar. Choose wisely, as Wine Cellar boasts one of the best collections of distinctive wines in the Nordic countries. Then ascend the stairs to your suite, where you’ll be offered a view of the inner harbor, Royal Palace and Gamla Stan.
If you pass another guest in the hallway, whisper a friendly god natt — “good night” — to end a great day.
Brittany Shoot is a San Francisco–based journalist who lived in Copenhagen for the past three years and frequently travels throughout Scandinavia with her Danish husband and inlaws. She bundled up in her favorite sweater from Stockholm’s Grandpa boutique while writing this piece.