It is impossible to see all of a city in which 13th-century forts coexist with 21st-century highways. But give Delhi a day, and within those 24 hours you will notice ancient history squabbling, murmuring and, finally, coexisting with its contemporary ambitions.

9 a.m.

Begin your morning by hailing a taxi or auto rickshaw. (Warning: These yellow-and-green three-wheel vehicles are a cheap way to get around. However, their drivers are often looking to make a quick buck from unsuspecting tourists, so insist they switch on the meter.) Then head to Saravana Bhavan on Janpath for a tasty breakfast of vegetarian south Indian food at a reasonable price. Order the rice flour-based dosa or uttapam, served with a spicy lentil curry and colorful condiments. Craving coffee? Saravana Bhavan serves what’s called filter coffee — prepared from a thick coffee concentrate and boiling milk, then served in a steel glass placed in a steel bowl. To look like a pro, pour the drink from a height back-and-forth from glass to bowl, allowing the sugar to mix and the drink to “breathe.”

10 a.m.

Just a few steps from Saravana Bhavan stands Cottage Emporium. This government-run shopping complex offers some of the finest Indian handicrafts under one roof. Revel in the intricacies of the textiles, the extravagance of the jewelry and the splendor of the carpets. Or, if you prefer the windy outdoors to air-conditioned comforts and bargaining to price tags, browse the stalls of Janpath Market. Haggle with good humor and you’ll be sure to leave with frightening masks, silk stoles and maybe even a bronze Indian god — all at a good price.

11:30 a.m.

Pile your bags into another auto rickshaw or cab and take a short ride for a look-see at the most famous Delhi landmarks: India Gate, Parliament and the President’s House. A simple drive-by of these monuments will give you a chance to marvel at these immense colonial structures built by the British. Then head to Jantar Mantar, an astronomical observatory, to get a sense of India’s scientific achievements 300 years ago.

1 p.m.

Don’t forget a dose of luxury. From Jantar Mantar, cross the road to the Park Hotel on Parliament Street for a session at its decadent Aura Spa. Afterward, decide if you want to continue splurging with a fine meal at the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Fire, or whether you’re game for some madness. If so …

2:30 p.m.

… take the Metro from Central Secretariat to Chawri Bazar on the yellow line. Here in North (or Old) Delhi, you’ll find yourself in snaking gullies, jostling with cycle rickshaws, cows and cars, skipping over puddles and avoiding alms seekers. This is the India of stereotypes, where chaos reigns. If you are steely of nerve and hardy of stomach, try the unlimited street food options. A good gauge of the best street seller is the crowd at his cart. In these lanes, you can get the finest kababs and naan breads in the city.

3:30 p.m.

From Chawri Bazaar, make your way by cycle rickshaw or cab to the imposing Jama Masjid, one of the most important Indian mosques. The courtyard alone holds up to 25,000 people; if that doesn’t instantly impress, its sandstone-and-marble facade and throng of worshipers will. Red Fort — a 17th-century fort created by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan — is also just a 20-minute trip away by foot.

5 p.m.

Take an auto rickshaw or cab to Humayun’s Tomb. The tomb is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal, and it will appear as an oasis of peace after the flurry of Old Delhi. Birds chirp, children play catch and residents of the neighborhood take their evening walk around this magnificent red sandstone mausoleum. Just five kilometers (about three miles) from there stand the Lodi Gardens, with tree-lined avenues, bursting flowerbeds and well-tended lawns. As the skies darken, the birds make a terrific racket in the treetops. But Lodi Gardens is still one of the most serene places in Delhi, where 16th-century ruins are offset by vistas of green and rivulets of water, making it a favorite for lovers and picnicking families alike.

7:30 p.m.

At night, Delhi stays awake in pockets. Khan Market, a short drive from Humayun’s Tomb, has traditionally been the favorite hangout. But Hauz Khas Village, farther south, is rapidly edging it out with a host of galleries, shops, bars and cafés. Head to the Living Room for a quick, relaxed drink; Yeti for its Tibetan and Nepalese meat dishes; or Elma’s Bakery and Tea Room for its famous sandwiches, scones and cakes.

11 p.m.

Delhi hotels like the exclusive Aman and the statuesque Imperial Hotel offer unparalleled luxury and comfort. But if your night ends at Hauz Khas Village, try the nearby Amarya Haveli, reputed for its attention to detail. After 24 hours in Delhi, slumber will quickly embrace you, but dreams of the city will linger long after.