Illustration by Alex Perez

Many visitors rush to the glorious, sandy beaches north of Maputo, squeezing their time in the capital city to just a few fleeting hours. But give your itinerary a bit more breathing room, and you’ll soon find yourself enthralled by the rhythms and flavors of this bulging metropolis.

Wherever you go in the city, try to travel by minibus (chapa). Your US$0.18 fare will get you a lot more than just a bus ride. It’s also a surprising pleasure to have your conductor thrust himself out the window and burst into a joyous rendition of Percy Sledge’s 1966 classic, “When a Man Loves a Woman.”

8:30 a.m.

For Maputo’s best coffee spot, seek out the venerable Cafe Continental in the bustle of Maputo’s commercial hub. Cozy up to the street-side terrace for a cup of café com leite (strong espresso mixed with hot milk), and take your pick from an extensive pastry menu. The noble pastel de nata — a succulent, irresistibly custardy treat — is a classic, and you can walk it off by taking a stroll around the 18th-century colonial fort, known as the Fortaleza, just around the corner.

9:30 a.m.

The Fortaleza houses a museum of artifacts from the early Portuguese colonial period, with regular exhibitions of contemporary Mozambican painting, sculpture and photography. Clamber onto the low, thick battlements and you’ll find an excellent view of the city as it slopes downhill, including the tall trees of the old botanical gardens. Return after dusk to peer into the small fish market directly below, where market women drive their bargains and young men vigorously de- scale gleaming fish by candlelight.

10:30 a.m.

While downtown (known as “Baixa”), dip into the Mercado Central to test out your bargaining skills for everything from fresh fruit to the latest mobile phones. Be sure to seek out a young woman named Yolanda Inacio, who sells the tastiest cashews from her stall. Inacio is somehow able to take new orders and fill others while, at the same time, holding spirited conversations, passing out exact change and operating three buzzing smartphones. It’s something of a marvel to witness her in action.

11:30 a.m.

A five-minute walk up the hill behind the market will take you to the Museu Nacional de Arte (entry US$1.75), which boasts a compact permanent collection of work by the country’s foremost painters and sculptors.

The country’s best-loved artist is the late Malangatana Ngwenya, whose work has enjoyed considerable international acclaim. Some of his most famous pieces are held here in the Museu Nacional de Arte, but it’s also worth popping into the garden of the neo-Gothic Museu de História Natural, where you’ll find a pair of his most ambitious murals set amid the greenery.

1:00 p.m.

Hop into a taxi for a short drive across town to Vietnamita restaurant on Rua José Mateus, a scrappy lean-to joint that’s especially popular around lunchtime. Service is rapid and everything on the menu is US$2.80. (Both the grilled fish and fresh prawns are delicious, served up hot from the pan with rice or noodles.)

2:00 p.m.

A 10-minute stroll from Vietnamita is the grand Polana Serena Hotel, where one of southern Africa’s most opulent spas recently opened. An hour’s full-body massage here could well be the most soothing experience that US$75 can buy in Maputo.

3:00 p.m.

Plunge back into the city, this time in the company of Jane Flood, an English émigré with a superb knowledge of Maputo’s architectural and artistic heritage. Flood runs a number of fascinating tours, and one of her most popular is the Amancio “Pancho” Guedes tour. Equipped with a bundle of old blueprints and urban history books, this joyous ramble around town takes in some of the prolific Portuguese architect’s most spectacular creations: elegant city mansions, soaring tower blocks and his own home. (Call ahead for a tour: +258-82-419-0574.)

5:30 p.m.

Grab a sundowner in one of the many bars on Avenida Julius Nyerere. You won’t regret paying a bit extra for the spectacular view from Hotel Avenida’s rooftop bar, revealing the whole city sprawling gently toward the Indian Ocean.

7:00 p.m.

By common consensus, the best dinner in Maputo can be found at Zambi, a stylish, seafront restaurant. You’ll immediately recognize Zambi’s architecture as a Pancho Guedes creation, and the food served is worthy of his genius. There’s a wide range of Portuguese and Mozambican dishes, and this is one restaurant where you won’t want to skip dessert. Book a table early so as not to be disappointed.

10:00 p.m.

Footsore and full of food, head for a good night’s sleep at the sumptuous Hotel Cardoso, perched on a clifftop at the city’s edge. If your room has a balcony, you’ll be able to step out before bed and watch the great ships cruising in Maputo Bay below.

Courtesy FEDOR SELIVANOV