With a higher average rainfall than London, Brussels has perfected comfort food as its way to promote emotional well-being. And the king of the city’s classic comforts is none other than the Belgian waffle. What could better serve as a substitute for the sun than this warm, golden, baked treat?
Waffles (wafels in Flemish, gaufres in French) have origins in both the Dutch and French sides of Belgium’s cultural composition. In the Middle Ages, waffles were made and served outside of churches as treats on religious holidays. Now, they are available just about anywhere in the city — from restaurants to window kiosks to moving vehicles called waffle trucks.
Just like the goods they offer, these bright yellow trucks naturally brighten the often-gray city. Unlike their ice-cream truck cousins, however, they have no need for musical devices to attract attention: You can smell them from hundreds of meters away.
Upon first encountering a waffle truck, I knew my waistline was in serious trouble. I was strolling around Brussels’ hip Sablon area, describing to a friend the ecstasy of my first Belgian waffle experience. When he, in turn, told me about the existence of waffle trucks, we immediately changed our course to seek one out.
When we found one, I had to restrain myself from skipping up to the service window. Despite our dinner reservation, I needed to have a waffle. Gaufres served in trucks cost €2 (about US$2.45) and are presented on thin, wax paper sheets along with napkins. Add an extra €0,50 for chocolate syrup and €1 for a dollop of creme fraiche.
A “tourist” version of the waffle offers a variety of additional toppings: strawberries, Nutella, whipped cream, caramelized fruit or any combination of these.
The toppings make them more difficult to eat on the go, so if you want to avoid getting sugary goodness all over, opt for une gaufre au nature; they are delicious on their own.
On our way home from dinner that night, I came across another vendor and picked up my second waffle of the day. (I decided against taking any chances, uncertain when my next mobile waffle experience might be.)
What I didn’t know then was that I would meet the trucks often: in suburban areas, at street corners in the city center and at weekend markets. I’ve since learned that there are two types of waffles: the rectangular Brussels waffle and its rounded-edged relative from nearby Liège.
The latter was created in the 18th century by the prince-bishop of Lièges’ chef, who modified the recipe by using brioche dough — creating a denser, chewier version of the classic.
Surprisingly, the Liège waffle is the most common in Brussels. (In fact, it’s the type served in waffle trucks.) The smell of its caramelized sugar coating renders you powerless to inevitable weight gain.
This has proven true for me: 12 weeks in Brussels, 26 waffles consumed and 4 pounds gained. My waistline is indeed in trouble.