24 Hours: Macau
Exploring the historic heart of this tiny, former Portuguese enclave.
Just off the coast of Hong Kong is the dense urban peninsula of Macau. Even before 1999, when Macau was returned to China after more than four centuries of Portuguese rule, efforts were underway to preserve the city’s historical architecture.
In 2005, the Inner Harbour area was named a UNESCO World Heritage site, because it “bears witness to one of the earliest and longest-lasting encounters between China and the West, based on the vibrancy of international trade.”
High-speed Turbojet ferries (turbojet.com.hk) take one hour to reach Macau and leave every 15 minutes from Hong Kong’s Macau Ferry Terminal and the SkyPier at Hong Kong International Airport.
9 a.m.
After arriving in Macau, grab a taxi outside the terminal for a roughly 20-minute ride to Senado Square, the epicenter of which is known as the Historical Center of Macau. Start your day with a noodle dish, soup or congee (rice porridge) at Wong Chi Kei, or try one of the small cafes in the surrounding area for all sorts of dim sum, chicken cakes, egg and cheese rolls.
Then explore the area’s neo-classical renovated buildings in mustard yellow and bright pink, which give this part of the city the feel of an Iberian town. Browse the clothes, handicrafts, furniture and antique shops along the side streets and — if you see something you like — don’t be afraid to bargain.
10:30 a.m.
A short walk from Senado Square takes you to one of the city’s most famous sites: St. Paul’s Cathedral. Built by the Jesuits in the 17th century, it was destroyed by fire in 1835. Only the carved-stone façade remains, yet it’s still considered one of the finest examples of Catholic Church architecture in Asia. Climb the steps and walk into the courtyard for panoramic views of the city.
Nearby is Mount Fortress, built around the same time to serve as the main Macanese defense network; it was once equipped with cannons, military barracks, and enough ammunition and supplies to endure a two-year siege.
11:30 a.m.
Backtrack to the square — past antique shops, tea houses, and food stalls selling egg tarts and sheets of beef and pork jerky — and cross the main road, Avenida Almeida Ribeiro. You’ll face the neoclassical Leal Senado (“loyal senate”), named for the colonial government’s refusal to recognize the Spanish occupation of Portugal in the 17th century. Peek inside at the stately grandeur of what is now Macau’s central library, housing valuable books and manuscripts.
Exit the building to the left and make the first left onto Calcada do Tronco Velho. At the top of a slight hill is tranquil St. Augustine’s Square, which reflects a traditional Portuguese streetscape with its restored buildings, cobblestone pavement and shading trees. There’s often a service being held at St. Augustine’s Church, established in the late 1500s, and Dom Pedro V Theatre still hosts regular concerts and recitals.
Further along Rua do Padre Antono, take a look at the beautiful Moorish Barracks, whose Islamic influence makes it something of an anomaly amid the city’s baroque and Sino-colonial structures.
12:30 p.m.
Continue down the sloping road, working up more of an appetite, and turn left onto Rua do Almirante Serigo to enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of Macau’s top Portuguese restaurants, A Lorcha. The cuisine reflects the peninsula’s crossroads heritage, merging styles and flavors from Europe, Africa, India, China and Latin America. Recommendations include flavorful clams mixed with garlic, coriander and olive oil; crispy octopus salad; and chunky lamb stew washed down with chilled vino verde.
2 p.m.
Not far from the restaurant stands A-Ma Temple, Macau’s oldest temple. The first of its numerous pavilions and prayer halls was built by fishermen 800 years ago in dedication to the Taoist goddess of seafarers. Burn some incense and pray for good fortune before heading to the nearby Maritime Museum (museumaritimo.gov.mo), where you’ll learn about the city’s role in the 17th-century trade of silk and silver.
4 p.m.
Grab a taxi back to Senado Square and walk north past Na Tcha Temple — built in 1888 to ward off a deadly plague — to the lovely Casa Garden. Built in 1770 as a residence for the powerful, rich Portuguese, the house is still considered the finest villa in Macau.
As you wander back to the square, watch as the early evening brings out local people and, often times, live music. If inclined, relax at MacauSoul (macausoul.com) and treat yourself to fine Portuguese wines, top imported cheeses and great jazz.
6 p.m.
There’s a range of dining options close by: Award-winning chef Anthony Alaimo cooks southern Italian food at Il Teatro, located inside the Wynn Macau (wynnmacau.com); Fat Siu Lau (fatsiulau.com.mo), dating back to 1903, serves up more traditional Macanese–style dishes; and Robuchon au Dôme (with three Michelin stars) offers Old-World elegance with contemporary Gallic cuisine, albeit with a heftier bill. It’s located in the Grand Lisboa Hotel (grandlisboahotel.com), topped with a giant psychedelic, flashing flower — considered the largest LED dome in the world.
8 p.m.
Taxi back to the ferry terminal and return to Hong Kong with timeless memories. (If the night still feels young, feel free to linger longer, keeping in mind that the last ferry leaves at midnight.)